Elevations

I've posted the preliminary elevations for the main house.  I am still working on the Right or North Elevation of the main house including the other structures.   These take awhile due to the items listed below (in addition to things to be aware of - since they are preliminary):

  • The 3 elevations of the main house are temporarily formatted smaller to fit onto one sheet.   They will eventually be resized to match 1/4" scale like the floor plans.   This scaling messes up some of the line-weights (which is temporary) so the outline of the house appears darker than it will appear when they are resized.   I put them all on one sheet so they are a little easier to read for now.
  • There are a number of details that are introduced here but maybe further refined and modified as we develop the design further and get more into the details
  • Some window / door sized may differ from plan - mainly due to standardization of sizes and what looks more appropriate in elevation (thus the plan may need to be modified as well for the windows / doors - its the nature of design - going back and forth is part of the refinement)
  • Some sill heights have been adjusted to match function but can be re-adjusted as needed per your elevation sketches -  for instance the sill heights on the Front elevation of the master closet / toilet were raised for privacy and storage reasons.
  • Some windows are different - example the Front Elevation of the garage shows a double window vs your sketch a triple window.  Again this is just a first pass and can be changed per your preference

You need to be a member of allylocal.com to add comments!

Join allylocal.com

Email me when people reply –

Replies

  • I updated A3.1 and A3.2 with the 6:12 roof pitches.  I still need update the Guest House and Entertainment Barn along with the Ceiling Plan and Roof Plan tags.   Let me know what you think? - Thanks.

  • Both the adjacent family room and main house roofs dictate the minimum height of the tower windows.  I don't think it works to Just change the pitch of the family room roof. 

    The other alternative is creative, but I'm not sure we want to make such a drastic change at this point.  As shown in the markup of your pdf, I'm also not sure what happens in the area circled -- seems to me the view of the roof line from the front will be altered a lot.     Also, same comment as above; the transom windows above the main house roof are still an issue.

    Unless you're opposed, let's go with changing the 7/12s to 6/12s and lowering the tower somewhat.  I don't think Mary's issue is that the tower is a little taller than the main roofline; I think she's bothered by the size of the expanse (on the tower's mid-section) between the lower windows and the transom windows.  Lowering the tower somewhat will help reduce this "empty" space. Based on my drawings, it looks like we might be able to lower about 1'.

    Thanks!

  • I just realized there is another viable alternative.  Instead of continuing ridge of the family room all the way to the tower as shown on the roof plan.... we can project the 3:12 roof over the hallway further thereby lowing the height of the ridge (which would still have a 7:12 pitch over the small covered entry at the hall door.   This would allow us to lower the height of the tower since the ridge would hit the tower at a lower location.   This solution would also add that "European Charm" to the structure.   I've attached a PDF file of the roof with this idea shown.

    Roof Alternate.pdf

  • Yes I knew that there was no option to keep the 3 windows and lower the tower more since the adjacent family room ridge dictates the minimum height of the windows and therefor the tower.   Reducing the pitch of the house from 7:12 to 6:12 will help but the tower will still be higher than the main ridge (unless perhaps only the family room becomes a 6:12 with everything else remaining at a 7:12).   I actually think it would be a viable alternative.   Remember we have the tower pitch at 5:12 already.   Also most people won't notice the pitch change from a 6:12 to a 7:12 and to be honest it may add more charm to the structure adding to the story that different parts where built at different times.   Remember we talked about why European architecture is more charming than American architecture and it is due to the European structures being built over time with slightly different characteristics to parts that are added on to it over decades (or even centuries).

  • Tim,

    Mary is still not completely satisfied with the elevations (mostly around the tower) and has suggested 2 things that should resolve her issues (I agree with her thoughts):

    1) Let's change the roof pitch from 7/12 to 6/12 (leave all other pitches that are not currently 7/12 the same). That change will lower the overall height of the house somewhat. (As an added benefit, a slightly lower pitch should help with roof accessibility).

    2) That will allow us to lower the height the tower somewhat.  As we discussed in our meeting at your house, please lower the tower so that the bottom of the transom window(s) have just minimal clearance from the roof below.

    Thank you!

    Greg

        

  • Hi Greg - I've modified the plans and elevations per your comments on the 8th so we can go over them in our meeting on the 20th.

    • I didn't do #3 comment on the back porch at the kitchen since it would also impact the language on the Barn and guest house (and wanted to review these with you prior to this change) - but we could modify all of them or just the Kitchen porch if you prefer.  We'll go over the +/-'s of each option in the meeting
    • I did add a rock skirt around the base of the house but just like I suggested keeping 2x4 framing in some areas (instead of all 2x6s) to save $ where insulation or sound didn't matter) - in this case I did the same thing and did the rock skirt on all the areas you are likely to see it.  However I didn't do it on the back of the garage for instance and carried the siding lower (we can still change this if needed obviously but as you know I constantly think about efficiencies regarding saving $)
  • Hi Tim, the elevations are looking good!

    Please see the two attached elevation pages (showing front and back of the house) with our hand written comments (which should be self explanatory): Elevations%20%28front%20of%20house%29.pdf      Elevations%20%28back%20of%20house%29.pdf

    Front of House

    1. The tower roof should be lower, so that the top is the same level of the ridge of the Great Room.  It appears that the tower roof can be simply lowered, but you might have to also lower the windows a little, if possible.  If necessary, it's okay to raise the Great Room roof slightly so we can get match.

    2. The trim "framing" the tower windows is good, but all the other windows and doors should have the same treatment. It looks like many of the other doors and windows have trim that's too narrow.  Also, ALL corners around the house should have the "post" look, similar to the look of the tower corners.

    3. The drawing show narrow vertical planks as the siding; they should be wider (8 - 12")

    4. There should be rock work/stones flanking the front door, not wood as shown.

    5. The grade is not properly reflected in the elevations. As discussed, there should be 2 steps up to the entry porch.  That means the garage is lower than the porch level by about 16". Also, I believe we discuss that the base of the house should have rockwork/stones creating a 16" skirt.

    Back of House

    1. The comments to the front will also apply to the back, except there should be 3-4 steps down from the back porch to grade.

    2. As indicated on the drawing, the entire garage should be lowered.

    3. After further thinking about the kitchen porch, we decided we'd prefer a flat ceiling for a cleaner, more refined look. As such, the sides will also be closed.

  • Sounds good and I agree that with the simulated steel will look better with the casement since it will match the larger fixed windows and french / bi-folding doors as well.

  • Tim, thanks for your comments and advice. Let's keep the Trellis (but let's also keep the option open to add a retractable solution, as you suggest).  

    Sorry about the windows -- we should have discussed this with you sooner.  We think the "simulated steel" look would look better as casement windows; and also that the casements will look more consistent with the large number of fixed windows around the house. Let's go with casement.

  • Responding to your May 7th comment about a solid roof vs trellis.   I get this concern on many projects one way or the other and it is really just a personal preference with no right solution.  Keep in mind the solid roof will also produce more shade.   My suggestion would be to keep it as a trellis with the option add a retractable canvas over the top of it for weather needs or a flat membrane roof.   Both of these options should be done after you live with it as an open trellis which I think you will love more rather than a non-permeable solution.

    I can change them to casements but your elevations show single hung windows (with the larger horizontal mullion and arrow showing the bottom pane sliding up).   Single hung is less expensive and longer lasting and more traditional - however casements look more like fixed windows giving you better visibility through them (since you don't have the larger horizontal mullion with a single or double hung  window).

    Let me know if you want me to switch them over to casement then? - Thanks.

This reply was deleted.
google-site-verification=wLfGnbtX8dngPdp2s-cVs-seE_1oaDtuyXB-r0jf5mE