Utility Layout Plan Comments

Here are the comments and questions from our initial review, completed on Sat Jan 17, 2015

1.FRONT ENTRY/FOYER

(1A) How critical is it to have the interior rope lights above the front door entry? We're thinking the track lights will provide sufficient amount of light in that area. Is the rope lights for wow factor or something else? 
(1B) If there is no wall to separate the entry/dining area, how will the two sets of rope lights (on each side of the wall) need to change? Would they need to change? What if we put a glass wine case there instead of a wall, how does the rope change? Do we need extra power sources if we do a wine cabinet there? 
(1C) ON each side of the foyer, will the rope lights alone provide enough lighting to that area? Do we need the track lights? 
2. LIVING ROOM
(2A) Would like 2 electric outlets on the West side wall. Where would be best place to put the outlets? Under the windows?
(2B) Living Room - Do we need that track light in the LR area that is right outside the laundry room?
(2C) Add an outlet on the NW corner of the living room. The outlet should face South (on the perpendicular side of the 2 dimmer switches) We want to plug in a nightlight here to guide our path from the laundry to the kitchen
3. LAUNDRY ROOM 
(3A) We think 1 set of track light should provide enough light. What do you think? If we just have 1 set, where would it go? If in the middle, how would it affect the fan? 
(3B) Remove the On Demand Water Heater. We are no longer doing that. We want an Electric Tank Water Heater (Inside the garage)
4. BATHROOMS 2, 3, 4, Master, Powder 
(4A) Combine Heat Lamp, Fan, and Light into 1 single Unit in the ceiling. But they need to have separate controls. 
(4B) Put an electric outlet on the wall of the toilet tank in ALL the bathrooms in case we want to install a special Japanese smart toilet seat. 
5. GUEST BEDROOM
(5A) Would like 2 electric outlets instead of 1 on the North side wall
6. OFFICE
(6A) Is it possible to have outlets on the floor? Vince's desk will be in middle of the room so don't want wires running across the room from electric outlet to the computer on the desk. 
(6B) Move the switch that is at the south side of the guest french door, from the left side to the right side of the door. 
7. KITCHEN
(7A) I want to be able to control all the overhead lights from the switch SW corner (closest to the bedrooms)
(7B) Move the controls for the rope lights from the SW side to the SE side (near the sliding door)
(7C) Can the fluorescent lights across all the kitchen cabinets be controlled individually? Or is it only controlled by the switch?
(7D) Add an outlet on the North side of the island (for a total of 2 outlets)
(7E) Remove the cat5 data outlet from the island (high expense and low usage)
(7F) Add a 4th switch on the SW corner that controls the 3 overhead lights in the great room/breakfast area
(7G) For the island where there will be chairs, put a slider below for extra cabinet space
(7H) Pantry, add a power outlet in case we need to plug in flashlight or anti-moisture
8. FAMILY ROOM
(8A) Add a 4th switch at the SW corner of the Family room that controls the great room rope lights. I need to a way to light my path on my way from the family room to the bedroom. If there is a better solution please suggest one. 
(8B) Do we need a switch for the electric fireplace? Don't see one on the drawing.
(8C) We are thinking of having the nano doors to fold from the S to N side. The single door that would likely get used more often, would be on the SE corner of the family room (closest and shortest distance from the kitchen to go out).  Will having the single door here run into problems with the windows that open above the kitchen sinks (to serve food from inside to out)?  Light switch will probably have to move if we change the direction of the Nano door opening.
(8D) Add outlet to the NE corner wall of the family room. The outlet should face West. 
9. GREAT ROOM/BREAKFAST AREA
(9A) Don't see a switch for the ceiling fan. 
10. DINING ROOM
(10A) Add a TV cable and Data outlet on the S side (there other side of bath 2) in case we ever want to put a TV on that wall
11. BEDROOM #2 and #3
(11A) More outlets on the N and S side wall. There should be 2 outlets on each wall. 
(11B) How high is the 3-way switch on the wall where bed will be? Will it put a constrain on how tall the bed headboard can be. Please clarify whether it controls both tables lamps on each side of the bed? 
(11C) All Bedrooms - - In general, add more power outlet (see specific location for certain rooms)
12. MASTER BEDROOM
(12A) One outlets underneath each of the big corner windows (so there should be 4 total)
(12B) Need to understand more how all the 3-way switches work?
(13C) Install a light switch on the South wall of the master closer for "secret entry way"
13. MASTER BATHROOM
(13A)  Lights need to be on the SIDE of the mirror instead of the top. All other baths can have lights on the TOP of the mirror. 
(13B) What are "LED CLN'G surface light fixtures?" They appear in the bath and closet. Depending on what they are, would it make sense to have canned light
(13C) Currently there is no heat or ventilation near the shower. Would like to install a heat lamp and vent near the shower. Need a separate switch for that. 
(13D) Move the light switch that controls the rope lights into the bath entry, from right side to the left side. (thinking that is closer to the bed, if we need to turn on the rope lights in the middle of the night to use restroom)
14. GARAGE ONE and TWO
(14A) Garage 1 - Add a 220 outlet for future electric car charging station
(14B) Garage 2 - Add a light switch on the North wall near the master bedroom closet for secret entry way in the future

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  • 2B - OK

    3B - modified since T24 worked with all electric appliances

    4A - OK

    6A - Determine location in the field (it can potentially shift due to rebar - cost is more of a coordination issue) - just remind Mike

    11B - let's assume 30" work but let Mike know if you want to raise it based on furniture you pick out

    12A - It is probably better to keep them at 18" off the floor to save $ and not have them tempered - added extra outlets in corners of Master Bedroom and Office.

    13B - reviewed in meeting

    14A - 220 outlets on north wall in each garage

    Liwen Cheung said:

    We reviewed your changes on Feb 2. I am focusing on the ones where I see you had some comments or questions based on what we asked. Here are our comments. 
    (2B) Living Room - Do we need that track light in the LR area that is right outside the laundry room?
    Cheung's Response: keep the track light as is then. No changes. 
     

    (3B) Remove the On Demand Water Heater. We are no longer doing that. We want an Electric Tank Water Heater Cheung's Response:  Let's see how title 24 calculations come out. Otherwise we prefer a tanked water heater (but know that it might impact the title 24 calculation). For now keep drawing the same. No changes. 

    (4A) Combine Heat Lamp, Fan, and Light into 1 single Unit in the ceiling. But they need to have separate controls. 

    Cheung's Response: Your changes look good. We agree that powder room does NOT need a heat unit.
     
    (6A) Is it possible to have outlets on the floor of vince's office. Done - I did this and liked it on my Campesino house.  The reason why I didn't here was because it is more difficult in a slab-on-grade (but agree we should do it anyway) 
    Cheung's Response: You state here it's more difficult on a slab-on-grade. What does that mean? What's the cost we may be looking at or something we need to determine on the field?
     
    (11B) How high will that 3-way switch be on the bed headboard? Tim: You need to let me know (based on your headboard preference) - for now shown at +30" and the switch controls both table lamps - thus in the middle of bed.
    Cheung's Response: We don't know the headboard selection at the moment. +30" feels about right. We assume it will be okay to make decision out on the field? 
    (12A) One outlets underneath each of the big corner windows in Master bedroom. Tim: Not suggesting this because like to get these windows as close to the floor as possible - do you want me to add floor outlets in Master Bedroom and Office for this?
    Cheung's Response: We were under the impression that the windows were 18 inches from the floor so that we don't need temper glass. Is it possible to get them lower?))
     
    (13B) What are "LED CLN'G surface light fixtures?" They appear in the bath and closet. Depending on what they are, would it make sense to have canned light
    Cheung's Response: Can you explain to us on Thursday after team meeting?
     
    (14A) Garage 1 - Add a 220 outlet for future electric car charging station
    Cheung's Response: We couldn't find the 220 outlet in garage 1 (only saw it in garage 2) We also couldn't find the document with the full view of garage 1 so just making sure it's there
     

     

  • We reviewed your changes on Feb 2. I am focusing on the ones where I see you had some comments or questions based on what we asked. Here are our comments. 
    (2B) Living Room - Do we need that track light in the LR area that is right outside the laundry room?
    Cheung's Response: keep the track light as is then. No changes. 

    (3B) Remove the On Demand Water Heater. We are no longer doing that. We want an Electric Tank Water Heater Cheung's Response:  Let's see how title 24 calculations come out. Otherwise we prefer a tanked water heater (but know that it might impact the title 24 calculation). For now keep drawing the same. No changes. 

    (4A) Combine Heat Lamp, Fan, and Light into 1 single Unit in the ceiling. But they need to have separate controls. 

    Cheung's Response: Your changes look good. We agree that powder room does NOT need a heat unit.
     
    (6A) Is it possible to have outlets on the floor of vince's office. Done - I did this and liked it on my Campesino house.  The reason why I didn't here was because it is more difficult in a slab-on-grade (but agree we should do it anyway) 
    Cheung's Response: You state here it's more difficult on a slab-on-grade. What does that mean? What's the cost we may be looking at or something we need to determine on the field?
     
    (11B) How high will that 3-way switch be on the bed headboard? Tim: You need to let me know (based on your headboard preference) - for now shown at +30" and the switch controls both table lamps - thus in the middle of bed.
    Cheung's Response: We don't know the headboard selection at the moment. +30" feels about right. We assume it will be okay to make decision out on the field? 
    (12A) One outlets underneath each of the big corner windows in Master bedroom. Tim: Not suggesting this because like to get these windows as close to the floor as possible - do you want me to add floor outlets in Master Bedroom and Office for this?
    Cheung's Response: We were under the impression that the windows were 18 inches from the floor so that we don't need temper glass. Is it possible to get them lower?))
     
    (13B) What are "LED CLN'G surface light fixtures?" They appear in the bath and closet. Depending on what they are, would it make sense to have canned light
    Cheung's Response: Can you explain to us on Thursday after team meeting?
     
    (14A) Garage 1 - Add a 220 outlet for future electric car charging station
    Cheung's Response: We couldn't find the 220 outlet in garage 1 (only saw it in garage 2) We also couldn't find the document with the full view of garage 1 so just making sure it's there
     

     

  • Responding to each question in order: ((NOTE - this forum discussion will be valuable for the electrical sub-contractor once they are on board)

    1.FRONT ENTRY/FOYER

    (1A) Track lights will shine down (and depending on the fixture) have the ability to slightly shine to the side.  Most likely they will leave a dark ceiling and this house with its unique ceiling you have an opportunity to provide a nice ambient light (mood lighting) while highlighting the ceiling so it doesn't appear like a dark hole (especially in a high ceiling).  When you wash a surface like a ceiling with light it reflects that light to other surfaces (creating the ambient / mood lighting). 

    (1B) There will be a high ceiling structural beam / soffit defining the entry area from the great room.  It will feel when you walk into the house that you are in the entry and then need to walk to or transition to the great room (not feel like you immediately appear in the great room as you enter the house).  I do have a power source that can be switched on (that can then plug in any kind of light for wine display).  I don't have the switch for the plug on the drawing but just now added it in (added a switch on the coat closet east wall for this switched outlet)

    (1C) Each side of the Entry Foyer does have track lights (that lead down the hall and go to the living room).  If you are referring to the east side of the coat closet then I suggest adding no more than a small picture light (but it is up to you) = don't think this wall or space needs to be highlighted and thing there will be enough ambient light in the area.

    2. LIVING ROOM
    (2A) Added under windows
    (2B) We could remove it but that would darken this area (which isn't necessarily a bad thing - it would still have light just not as much light) - downplaying an area is sometimes desirable - let me know if you do want to remove it.
    (2C) I added an outlet just to the south of the pocket door in the living room that leads into the kitchen (let me know if you intended it to be in another location)
    3. LAUNDRY ROOM 
    (3A) You actually have a fairly long laundry room.  I figured each track light fixture would have 4 lights each so figure 2 for each side of the room (2x East and 2x West).  The answer really depends on the fixture itself and how many lights per track and how bright they are.  I would suggest keeping it as is until we actually select the fixture (this will be the determinate factor if it will produce enough light).  Another thing to consider is that Laundry rooms are typically work-space rooms where people would prefer an abundant of light as oppose to not enough.  Keep in mind as well the fixtures are on dimmers.
    (3B) Did you do more research on each?  Perhaps we should talk to a plumber first to see which one makes sense relative to the demand and distance of each unit.  It would be easy to get Mike to ask one of his plumbers to look at this for us (to give us his recommendation) - unless you already got some advice (let me know)?
    4. BATHROOMS 2, 3, 4, Master, Powder 
    (4A) Done - Modified the drawing - I just showed them together as separate symbols to indicate they will be switched separately (but they can be one unit).  Often these units have a special type of switch with different controls but will show it with 2 switches per unit instead of 3 for the heat as well.  We just have to select the correct fixture since it isn't defined yet (with the electrician).  I don't think this type of unit is needed for the Powder Room (unless you disagree) = typically you just need 1 light over a sink and a fan (no heat lamp).
    (4B) Done
    5. GUEST BEDROOM
    (5A) Done
    6. OFFICE
    (6A) Done - I did this and liked it on my Campesino house.  The reason why I didn't here was because it is more difficult in a slab-on-grade (but agree we should do it anyway) - done. 
    (6B) Done
    7. KITCHEN
    (7A) Done
    (7B) Done
    (7C) Both individually and by switch - can explain on phone
    (7D) Done
    (7E) Done
    (7F) Done
    (7G) This will be done when we coordinate with the cabinet maker.  Suggest adding a new discussion forum just for you cabinets (all of them not  just the kitchen) + add this note + add images of cabinets you like.
    (7H) Done
    8. FAMILY ROOM
    (8A) Better to keep 3-way switch instead of 4-way (too expensive) - just moved the SW switch near the bar/desk and kept the other switch near the kitchen
    (8B) Normally this is an appliance specific switch but added it anyway
    (8C) Done
    (8D) Done
    9. GREAT ROOM/BREAKFAST AREA
    (9A) Added
    10. DINING ROOM
    (10A) Done
    11. BEDROOM #2 and #3
    (11A) Done
    (11B) You need to let me know (based on your headboard preference) - for now shown at +30" and the switch controls both table lamps - thus in the middle of bed.
    (11C) Done per (11A)
    12. MASTER BEDROOM
    (12A) Not suggesting this because like to get these windows as close to the floor as possible - do you want me to add floor outlets in Master Bedroom and Office for this?
    (12B) You can turn on/off light from one switch or the other (but only one switch can dim)
    (12C) Done
    13. MASTER BATHROOM
    (13A) Done
    (13B) Will explain via phone call
    (13C) Done
    (13D) Done
    14. GARAGE ONE and TWO
    (14A) Done
    (14B) Done
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