Nice Job with the site plan presentation and pictures. Hopefully it will alleviate the need to draw up the existing structure and the potential need for a Civil Engineer. Let me know how it goes and I'll see you guys the following weekend to go over the main house.
Sure we can do exposed Trusses. Since we still need insulation - the Roof will still be framed with 2x12's and what you see in those pictures (trusses and beams) can still be applied below them. The reason why they are considered "false" - is that the 2x12 rafters are the real structural support of the roof itself but this doesn't mean that the decorative trusses / beams can't be solid members still. I think when you see it in section (and I'll modify ceiling plan) later today - it will become clear.
Hi Tim - just looked at the ceiling plan and had some comments
i know we talked about vaulting the ceilings but we were hoping to also use exposed trusses. Keba really likes the look of the ceiling in the photo below and i'm strongly opposed to using false beams. We haven't talked to Brad about what he used in his design, but i really hope we can incorporate this design feature.
We'd like to have the king post strut (see images) on the horizontal kitchen/closet wall and one in the middle of the living room/kitchen and bedroom with a longitudinal ridge beam connecting them. Preferably 6x8 or 6x10 or similar, for all beams - for stylistic impact. The building ends can use the cheaper lumber (2x6? 2x10?) since they will be hidden.
We also haven't discussed whether the bedroom will be enclosed or if the space above the closet will be open to the living room. We would prefer to have it all open.
As usual, it looks great. We really appreciate how nicely you are moving this project along.
I have reviewed the new drawings, and had some questions, comments.
1. on the back wall (north wall, 3 window set + bath window), can you make the spacing between the outer two bedroom windows the same spacing (king size) as the bed side windows on the west side ... see attached image. The purpose being as a secondary choice for bed placement, just in case someone wishes to put the bed on the back wall, in the future. we'd like to keep the longitudinal view from the front door to the back window, and the symmetrical spacing you have for all 4 windows.
2. i was reviewing the other houses you've created, and i really liked the the corner pantry you placed in the welty house... see attached image. Can you do the same design for us on our kitchen's north west corner? moving both the stove and fridge slightly south, along the west wall, and having a small extra set of side cabs on the north kitchen wall. Fitment for this change would probably require reducing and/or rotating the island. seating for 2 (instead of 3) is ok.
3. agree with you about using individual wall heater rather than utility closet. best placement for the wall heater? possibly on the north kitchen wall, near the bedroom door? secondary wall heater in bedroom is not necessary since the house is so small, and has open ceilings.
4. there may have been some miscommunication about which wall i wanted to center... i was referring to the long horizontal north kitchen wall, (south back wall of the closet), not the short vertical east closet wall. the closet is good at 10' width? ... see attached image.
5. washer/dryer closet depth? i have not measured them yet, and i don't know what is standard, but maybe 2' depth is too short for the dryer venting tube, etc.. i was thinking 2.5-3' depth. water hookups on east wet wall?
6. east side door, we'd like to use a standard width solid exterior door. since it should be considered a temporary door, and will be removed after the addition is done, eventually we'd like to reuse it for the exterior access door on the northwest corner of the garage. not sure what size you'd recommend here, but is 3' width and 6'8" height appropriate? or should it match the 8' doors in height?
7. I agree with you to make the small house all electrical - let's do that.
it appears we will need a few more things before we can submit it to the county. The bottleneck appears to be to get the Health department to provide a feasibility statement, or just to approve the plan overall. We will work on the other required guidelines.
Modified the spacing - you can see the old dimensions in your image attachment and compare it to the current.
Sure - and I think you'll use the pantry (especially since everyone likes to buy in Bulk these days - like Costco shopping). I do think it becomes too tight to stack all the appliances on the western wall and as a result I allowed the ref/frez. to wrap the corner along with some cabinet space. Since you were fine with 2 person island I think this will work fine.
Usually HVAC people like to place heaters near windows. Instead of us trying to locate it specifically I'll just note a general location with note to be design build and located by HVAC sub
Centered bedroom separation wall per your sketch - however - I did speak to Brad (structural) and he actually liked the closet wall also under the ridge beam
You can actually get shallower W/D's with tighter hook ups (they are more European / Apartment type units - for instance we have some Bosch units in our apartment - but will get larger ones for our house. For now though I created it at 3ft depth per your latest note.
modified to 3ft but kept it at 8ft tall
Sounds good
I'll work on the site plan later today or tomorrow
google-site-verification=wLfGnbtX8dngPdp2s-cVs-seE_1oaDtuyXB-r0jf5mE
Replies
Nice Job with the site plan presentation and pictures. Hopefully it will alleviate the need to draw up the existing structure and the potential need for a Civil Engineer. Let me know how it goes and I'll see you guys the following weekend to go over the main house.
New Lot Lines
Boundry Adjustment.pdf
keba ahmadyar said:
Site Development Review Coversheet.pdf
SItePlan3.pdf
SItePics3.pdf
3/27/17
Site plan submitted for site development review!!
Hi Greg,
Sure we can do exposed Trusses. Since we still need insulation - the Roof will still be framed with 2x12's and what you see in those pictures (trusses and beams) can still be applied below them. The reason why they are considered "false" - is that the 2x12 rafters are the real structural support of the roof itself but this doesn't mean that the decorative trusses / beams can't be solid members still. I think when you see it in section (and I'll modify ceiling plan) later today - it will become clear.
Hi Tim - just looked at the ceiling plan and had some comments
i know we talked about vaulting the ceilings but we were hoping to also use exposed trusses. Keba really likes the look of the ceiling in the photo below and i'm strongly opposed to using false beams. We haven't talked to Brad about what he used in his design, but i really hope we can incorporate this design feature.
We'd like to have the king post strut (see images) on the horizontal kitchen/closet wall and one in the middle of the living room/kitchen and bedroom with a longitudinal ridge beam connecting them. Preferably 6x8 or 6x10 or similar, for all beams - for stylistic impact. The building ends can use the cheaper lumber (2x6? 2x10?) since they will be hidden.
We also haven't discussed whether the bedroom will be enclosed or if the space above the closet will be open to the living room. We would prefer to have it all open.
http://www.houzz.com/photos/1417321/Adobe-Ranch-southwestern-family...
http://www.houzz.com/photos/2024700/Portola-Valley-Retreat-traditio...
ceilingplan.jpg
Thank you Tim! This looks amazing and we are very happy with the final result :)
Can't wait to build it!
just checked the actual dimensions on our LG washer/dryer set. It looks like we'll need a minimum of 3' depth.
We went to look at windows and doors today and found the 5' french doors to be too narrow to get through if only one door is open
if there is room - please widen french doors to 6 feet
thank you!
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